Vintage clothing hunting can be an exhilarating adventure. Among the most prized finds for many enthusiasts are authentic vintage Levi's jeans. However, the world of vintage Levi's can be a minefield of confusion without the right guide. This post aims to demystify the process and arm you with the knowledge to distinguish the real deal from the fakes.
Understanding the Levi's Tab
The small red tab on the back pocket of Levi's jeans is one of the most recognizable aspects of the brand. However, the details of this tab have changed over time. Before 1971, the word "LEVI'S" was capitalized and included an "®" symbol. If the pair you're eyeing has this, they are pre-1971 Levi's. After 1971, the brand name on the tab was written as "Levi's" in lowercase.
The Hidden Rivets
Levi's introduced hidden rivets, those attached to the back pockets, in the 1930s, and they were included until the mid-1960s. If your jeans have hidden rivets, they likely date back to this era.
The Care Tags
Levi's started introducing care tags in the late 1960s. If your jeans have a care tag, they were most likely made after 1971. It's also worth noting that vintage Levi's made before 1980 will have a capital 'E' in the word 'LEVI'S' on the tag.
Selvedge or Not
Another tell-tale sign is the presence of a selvedge seam, often visible when you turn up the cuff. Pre-1980s Levi's were made with a selvedge edge, a neat and clean seam edge seen on the outseam. Post-1980s jeans usually don't have this feature due to changes in manufacturing processes.
Examine the Arcuate Stitching
The double arching stitch lines, or "arcuate," on the back pockets is a signature Levi's design. Over the years, Levi's has altered this design, making it a useful tool in dating your jeans. Some WWII-era Levi's had painted arcuates due to thread rationing.
The Button Number
Another distinguishing feature is the number imprinted on the back of the top button. Jeans made between the 1950s and 1970s will have a number ranging from 501 to 555. If the number is 501, it was made in the U.S.
Check the Leather Patch
The leather patch (or "Two Horse Patch") on the back of the jeans can also provide hints. Older vintage jeans (pre-1950s) will have a leather patch, while post-1950s versions may use a cardstock patch instead. The design on the patch can also offer clues to the jean's age.
Remember, while these guidelines are useful, there may be exceptions. Also, consider the jeans as a whole: the wear, the fade, and the overall look and feel. Vintage Levi's have a particular patina that comes from being well-made and well-worn.
With these tips, you're now armed with the knowledge to begin or continue your journey into the world of vintage Levi's. Happy hunting!
In the next blog post, we will dive into "Why Vintage Levi’s Jackets are the Ultimate Style Statement." Stay tuned for more denim discussions!